Bologna, Italy

Nestled in the heart of Italy is Bologna. It is less visited than, say, Rome or Florence but is surely a contender for a hidden gem in Italy’s crown. Bologna is the capital of Emilia-Romagna, a region in northern Italy. The locals have strong political views and a passion for culinary delights. The city is a beautiful fusion of architecture and history. Its streets are adorned with endless sights of its famous porticoes. Bologna is a medieval masterpiece and boasts warm terracotta hues. It enjoys a vibrant and authentically Italian atmosphere. Read on as we explore its charm and nicknames – “La Dotta” (The learned), “La Grassa” (The fat), “La Rossa” (the Red) and Turrita (with towers).

Column of the Blessed Virgin of the Rosary

Bologna History

Bologna’s rich history spans millennia. What started as a small Umbrian settlement before it was conquered by the Etruscans (who called the settlement Felsina) before becoming a Roman colony named Bononia. During the medieval years, the construction of its two famous towers were built to monitor those who wished to enter and defend as necessary. Bologna became a city of learning and was transformed into a renaissance and Baroque hub. This led to a boom leading to the building of magnificent homes, palaces and striking squares. The city was also a key player in the Risorgimento (unification of Italy) which brought the city further riches as it became a centre of industry and commerce. Towards the end of World War II, the cities rail hub and industry meant it was a strategic target for air raids which did significant damage.

“La Dotta”

“La Dotta” means ‘the learned’ and is reference to the city’s historic university, “Alma Mater Studiorum”. The university is the oldest in the Western world (just pipping Oxford in the UK – AD1096). Bologna’s university was founded in AD 1088 and provided teaching and learning dedicated to the study of law. Archiginnasio Palace was once the main buildings of the university. A visit to the palace allows one to see the incredible courtyard adorned with coats of arms. The main draw of visiting the palace is the Anatomical Theatre where lessons were given on, you guessed it, the anatomy. The theatre is made from spruce wood with the original marble table in the middle of the room which was used for autopsies (the room was severely damaged during the war but rebuilt). The ceiling has been decorated with symbolic figures which represent the fourteen constellations and Apollo, the protector of medicine, positioned in the centre.

Entrance to Archiginnasio Palace Courtyard

Ceiling of staircase in Archiginnasio Palace

“La Grassa”

‘La Grassa’ means ‘the fat’ which refers to Bologna’s hospitality and traditional food. Known as Italy’s food capital, it is the birthplace of some of Italy’s most beloved foods. Bologna is famous in Italy for its balsamic vinegar, wine, cold cuts of meat, parmesan cheese and fresh pasta. Traditional dishes include Tagliatelle al ragu (what many people may called spaghetti bolognaise), tortellini in broth, lasagna al ragu (my personal favourite) and cotoletta petroniana (breaded meat fillets fried in lard, topped with prosciutto, parmesan cheese). Bologna’s famous cooked sausage, made with finely ground pork, fat and spices is called Mortadella, and it can only be called Mortadella if has been made in Bologna. It is easy to see why Bologna’s reputation is the food capital of Italy.

“La Rossa”

Bologna owes the name “la Rossa” to its famed red buildings and to the fact that it is the birthplace and the home of Italy’s political left. Politics is always a subject best left alone so I focus on the red architecture and terracotta roofs that render the city – La Rossa. When walking the streets of Bologna, the buildings and churches are often missed as the large porticoes hide them. A visit up any of the towers that allow access will show off the famous red rooftops of the city.

Bologna Porticoes

The famous porticoes of Bologna make for a unique experience. Over 40km of them can be found in the city, with the longest continuous portico leading from Porta Saragozza to San Luca (you can read about that here). UNESCO has now declared these and Bologna itself a world heritage site which is confirmation of their cultural significance. The porticoes were built out of brick, stone or wood and some date from the twelfth century. A requirement was that they had to be tall enough for a man sat on a horse to ride through them. They can be found wherever you walk around the streets of Bologna and you can’t miss and admire these architectural masterpieces.

“Turrita”

Bologna is described as towered (Turrita) because at one point Bologna could boast around 100 towers, which surely would have given Manhattan a run for its money in appearance. Towers were built to symbolise power and had to be tall and imposing. Sadly, today there are only around 20-30 towers remaining of which the iconic two at the heart of the city are often referred to as the ‘symbols of the city’ or ‘the two towers’. They are just about still standing, although currently not accessible due to renovation works (if you would like to contribute to the restoration then click here). The tallest one, Asinelli at 97.02 metres, was built between 1109 and 1119 by the Asinelli family and the Torre Gardisenda (also named after the family that built it) stands next to it but at a much shorter height of 47 metres. The Gardisenda tower gives the leaning tower of Pisa a run for its money and actually leans more than Pisa’s tower by 0.03 degrees.

Bologna's Churches

At the heart of the city is Piazza Maggiore, which is dominated by Bologna’s most important church, and, one of the largest in the world, the Basilica of San Petronio. The church is dedicated to Saint Petronius, the patron saint of Bologna. It is known as the unfinished church due to its main façade never being completed. Inside is a vast gothic masterpiece, tall and imposing as soon as you walk in. 22 chapels line the side of naves. Personally, I wouldn’t say that this is the most important church in Bologna, as we found out when visiting Bologna Cathedral. The cathedral is the seat of the archbishop and, by definition, be the most important in the city. Another church that we visited that is important is the one at San Luca. Here we learned about ‘Madonna and Child’ and its importance not only to the people of Bologna but the rest of the world. Other churches that must be explored upon our return are the Santa Stefano complex better known as “Seven churches”, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of the Holy Crucifix and the Basilica of San Giacomo Maggiore to name a few.

Gothic interior of Basilica di San Petronio

Conclusions

This blog gives a brief snapshot of this wonderful city. It is certainly not as famous as other Italian cities but has a lot to offer the inquisitive tourist. Perhaps I shouldn’t write so much about it and keep it my secret. Perhaps the locals do not want its soul sold to the tourism gravy train. My meanderings have brought me to Bologna on many occasions and each time I learn more about this incredible city. Every time I come I fall further in love with this city. It satisfies some of my great loves -history, architecture and food. It is not just the imposing buildings, their interiors and the magnificent statues that appeal but the famous porticoes appear to be woven into its very fabric. Bologna is truly a special place. Whisper it quietly – this city should be on everyone’s ‘places to visit’ list.

March 30, 2025March 30, 2025

Monument to the fallen of Sabbiuno

This is a site that probably deserves more attention yet I’m sure people are grateful for its peaceful seclusion. The site is a little further down the road than the ‘Sanctuary of Madonna at San Luca’ and approximately 9km due south of Bologna. The monument is a significant war memorial which elicits great amounts of emotion. The awe inspiring ‘Monument to the fallen of Sabbiuno’ is dedicated to the memory of soldiers who horrifically lost their lives in the line of duty towards the end of World War II.

This monument to the fallen not only serves as a poignant tribute to people who suffered in past events but a stark reminder of the need of peace and unity in current times. The stunning panorama is a memorial to the fallen of the atrocious events that took place here in December 1944. This was the site of the massacre of approximately 100 Bolognese partisans and political prisoners who were shot by Nazi fascists. The accurate number and full truth will never be known, as the bodies were recovered after the Liberation and not all were identified. It is believed that these atrocious events took place between 14^th and 23^rd December 1944, an event known as the ‘Sabbiuno di Paderno massacre’.

Farmhouse at Sabbiuno — Farmhouse at Subbiuno

This remembrance site is striking. It runs along the crest of the ravine from an isolated farmhouse to a curved wall on the ridge. The curved wall has been built as a symbolic representation of the firing squad. There are gaps in the wall where replica machine guns stick out. Between the farmhouse and ridge rest 53 staggered boulders. A close inspection reveals the names of the individuals who were tragically shot and were able to be identified. There is one additional boulder with no name which is dedicated to the forty-seven unidentified fallen. This striking monument was created by the Gruppo Architetti Città Nuova, and formed by Letizia Gelli Mazzucato, Umberto Maccaferri, and Gian Paolo Mazzucato, between 1972 and 1973.

Walking along beside the boulders is an eerie experience. It conjures up mixed emotions and feelings as the monument lays bare the horrific atrocities of war. My meanderings aren’t always fun tales of the good times but are often learning journeys where exploration leads to education. The education that took place here at the ‘Monument of the fallen of Sabbiuno’ was powerful. I thank Lorenzo our local taxi guide for telling us about this place. The monument to the fallen of Sabbiuno is a very touching tribute.

March 23, 2025April 14, 2025

San Luca, Bologna, Italy

Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca

Perched on top of the mountain Colle della Guardia and overlooking the city of Bologna is the iconic ‘Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca’, an important symbol of the city. There has been a church in some form at the site since the 12^th century with the current basilica built in the 18^th century. Read on as I learn why San Luca is more than just a tourist destination, and as I discover, more by luck than by judgement, about the ‘Madonna and child’ and the symbolism of the longest portico in the world.

History of San Luca

Tradition has it that in the 11^th century a pilgrim by the name of Theocles Kmnia arrived in Italy from Constantinople carrying a painting depicting the ‘Madonna and Child’. He was to take the painting to Monte della Guardia (a hill to the southwest of Bologna) but ended up in Rome. Thankfully a Bolognese senator was able to show him the right way. Theocles arrived at the gates of Bologna in 1160 and delivered the painting of ‘Madonna and Child’ to the then Bishop of Bologna, a Gerardo Grassi.

At the top of Monte della Guardia was a small church where Beatrice and Azzolina Guezi (two hermits leading a penitent life) took sanctuary. Bishop Grassi decided to deliver the painting to this church. Thus, the route that pilgrims still take to this day was born.

Over time a large influx of pilgrims visited the church which meant that it needed to expand to cope with the increased numbers. So, in 1194 the foundation stone, which came from Rome, was laid and blessed by Pope Celestine III. Since then, the church has had many transformations. Construction of the church as seen today was started in 1723 by Carlo Francesco Dutti and finished in 1757.

The Church

The basilica is prominent and spectacular being built on top of the hill. It is captivating, looks very Bolognese – plain and simple – basic in its external decor (orange in colour), and with a distinctive dome on top. As I walk in, I’m immediately drawn to the altar at the far end. Unknown to me, this is where ‘Madonna and Child’ is kept.

One soon realises the importance, grandeur and splendour of the altar area. Artwork, pillars, golden decorations adorn this area of the church. One cannot ignore the centrepiece, ‘The Madonna of San Luca’, which is kept in a silver looking case which sits in an ornate cove and is surrounded by golden borders. Also, inside the church it is possible to see works from Guido Reni, Donato Creti, Giuseppe Mazza and Guercino.

Inside San Luca — Chapel inside San Luca

The Rains of 1433

In 1443 the heavy rains threatened to destroy the cities harvest. The city elders decided that that a procession from San Luca, carrying ‘The Madonna with Child’ to the centre of Bologna might help the situation. Miraculously, as the painting left San Luca so it began to stop raining. And so, since 1443 it has become tradition (feast of accession) to carry the painting down to the city where it resides in Bologna’s Cathedral for a 1 week before a procession takes it back. There were two occasions when this didn’t happen – firstly, in 1849 when the city was occupied by Austrians and, secondly, in 1944 during World War II.

The modern procession has broken a little from tradition as it now starts at Porta Saragozza and not San Luca and makes its way through the streets of the city to Bologna Cathedral.

The World’s Longest Portico

Built to protect pieces of artwork of the ‘Madonna and Child’ that had been created along the route, local merchants and wealthy families came together to provide the needed funds to build the portico. The world’s longest portico (covered walkway) was built between 1674 and 1793. The first arch starts at beginning of Via Saragozza, a street which leads away from the city at Porta Saragozza (gate of Saragozza).

The portico is made up of 666 arches and 15 chapels. The number of arches may be thought a very controversial number when you consider its religious significance (the number of evil and, some would say, the devil) but it is, in fact, by design. When looking from above the portico resembles a snake slithering up the hill to ‘meet’ the ‘Madonna’ church. The snake symbolises the devil and the church is seen as victorious and reigning supreme over the devil.

The length of the walk from bottom to top is 4km. For tourists and pilgrims alike, it is said that reaching the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca by foot can make a wish come true.

Conclusions

The Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca should not be missed when visiting Bologna. Simple in appearance yet significantly symbolic, it is a pilgrimage site for believers, but also a very popular tourist destination. A portico plod may be inspiring though extremely exhausting, especially in the summer months. Reach the top, however, and there is great reward. This trip educated me on the ‘Madonna and Child’ and the significance it plays in the city of Bologna, and how it effects its traditions and its people. San Luca is a beautiful place of myth and mystery.

March 16, 2025March 17, 2025

Bologna Cathedral

Bologna Cathedral
As I leave my hotel and walk along Via Indipendenza towards Bologna’s city centre, I’m immediately drawn to a tall, imperious, church-like looking façade which is nestled almost secretly alongside buildings in the busy street. Bologna Cathedral is unlike other cathedrals I have visited (both home and abroad), Bologna’s cathedral seems to be a secret and is easily confused with the Basilica of San Petronio in Piazza Maggiore. The locations of most cathedrals that I have visited are such that they normally dominate a square in the city centre. Such cathedrals stand proudly and majestically in sight for all to gaze in wonder and are hubs of activity. Normally a cathedral has a very commanding presence for a city but Bologna’s cathedral is shy and reserved in comparison. Although almost hidden as if a terraced property, it should not be ignored and provides a great place to start exploring Bologna.

The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Peter
This is Bologna’s cathedral’s full and proper name. In the 16^th century, Bologna’s bishop of the time was elevated by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582 to become an archbishop, which meant that the cathedral was given the rank of “metropolitan church”. Bologna’s cathedral then became the seat of the archbishop and gave the archbishop jurisdiction over the ecclesiastical territory (diocese), which included other cathedrals and their bishops. Bologna’s archdiocese has three suffragan dioceses (dioceses other than the metropolitan archdiocese that constitute an ecclesiastical province). To the southeast of Bologna lies the Diocese of Imola (cathedral of Imola) and little further down the road the Diocese of Faenza-Modigliana (Faenza cathedral). To the northeast of Bologna, the third Diocese of Ferrara-Comacchio (Ferrara cathedral). I’m sure as we explore the churches and cathedrals in England we will come across many similar arrangements.

History of Bologna Cathedral
Looking at its history it is a bit of a calamitous church. Bologna’s cathedral is dedicated to San Pietro (Saint Peter), head of the apostles and the first pope. Most of the present building dates from the 17^th century with the cathedral’s origins being traced back to the 10^th and 11^th century. Its calamitous past has seen several changes over the centuries. It was ravaged by a fire in 1131 and damaged by an earthquake in 1222. This meant that the church was rebuilt a couple of times. In 1477 two Ferrarese painters worked on the creation of a cycle of frescoes, and these would have had a significant influence on Niccolo dell ’Arca and Michelangelo. Sadly, the frescoes were lost in subsequent reconstruction. In 1599 the alterations made to the cathedral caused the vaults to collapse and the cathedral was then built from scratch and started in 1605.

Façade of Bologna Cathedral
Due to its location and its height it’s very hard to photograph the front of the cathedral. It has a very bland appearance and is constructed out of red stone. The façade that is seen today was built between 1743 and 1747 under the instructions of Pope Benedict XIV. The designs were completed by architect Alfonso Torregiani. Looking at the front of the cathedral, two statues may be seen – the one on the left is San Pietro and the one on the right is San Paolo (Saint Paul).

Inside Bologna cathedral
Walking into the cathedral nave, I immediately take my eyes off to colourful tiles in front of me and raise my eyes to the grand altar at the front of cathedral. There are golden pillars on each side with paintings on the ceiling and a coat of arms across the top. Looking at this display I notice the height of the ceiling of the whole room. Why so tall? Acoustics? There are tall pillars on either side of the nave with chairs in the middle for the congregation to sit. The actual ceiling is very bland in appearance. In between the pillars there are different chapels, with paintings and lots of golden furnishings. In the first chapel (immediately on your right as you walk in) you will see a display of terracotta statues which is called the Lamentation of Christ. This was sculptured by Alfonse Lombardi between 1522 -1526. Also, inside Bologna Cathedral it is possible to admire paintings by Prospero Fontana, Ludovico Carracci, Marcantonio Franceschini and Donato Creti. In the altar area is a wooden crucifix from the 12^th century.

Bologna Cathedral Crypt
A crypt is an underground vault which is normally used as a chapel or a burial place. Access to the crypt is permitted as part of a combined ticket with the bell tower and will cost you 5 euros and is only open on certain days and times. Lucky enough for it to be open on my visit, I took a visit to the crypt where I found a chapel and an archaeological site. The site has found remains of 10^th century Romanesque cathedral pillar beam, and also two beams from the 12^th century. In the nave they have put glass flooring in for viewing.

Bologna Cathedral Bell Tower
An incredible visit to the top of the tower is a must for those fit and daring enough. I quickly found out that the bell tower is a tower within a tower! The original tower is 40 metres high and survived the fire and earthquake mentioned earlier. In 1254 the bell tower that is seen today was constructed around the existing tower. The encompassing tower is now 70m high and is the second tallest tower in Bologna. The covered dome topping was added in 1426. Its rather surreal when you climb the steps trapped between the two towers. When you arrive at the top, the views are incredible and give another perspective of Bologna’s skyline. Inside the bell tower are 4 bells, and the largest known as ‘nonna’ or ‘grandmother’ weighs 33 quintals. It takes a funny upside-down position. The bells are rung “in the Bolognese way” and this requires 23 people to ring the bells.

Conclusions
A secretive cathedral and possibly the most important church in Bologna. I’m sure many people like me would confuse Bologna Cathedral with the dominating and unfinished Basilica in Piazza Maggiore which has the appearance and location of a cathedral but as we have learned doesn’t have the archbishop. I have learned that this church is the head of the archdiocese and I will have to visit the cathedrals in nearby Ferrara, Imola and Faenza, which make up Bologna’s diocese. A visit to the tower is always worth the hard work of climbing the stairs (I forgot to count how many) which gives a totally different view of the city. I hope you enjoy this blog. For those planning a visit to Bologna in the future, ignore it at your peril. For those who have been please let me know your thoughts.

Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

August 21, 2024February 1, 2025

A Tuscan Fairytale

The sun is sinking in the west, its rays radiating an array of colours that light up the sky. The sound of enjoyment and the chink of glasses combine with nature’s evening song to disturb the peaceful end to the day. Each evening we both take a moment to appreciate not only nature’s final daily display but the sight of our friends and families together as one.

Whisper it very quietly, but we have a secret to share (and one we hope remains a sort of secret!). This is a place with which we fell in love the moment we saw it and now a place we will never forget, and one that will live long in the memories. This place oozes warmth, generosity and friendship. It’s almost secretly but idyllically set in the Crete Senesi region, among the clay hills south of Siena and near the Arbia River. Here lies the romantic and intimate Castello di San Fabiano.

Our fairytale gave birth to new friendships, strengthened existing ones and opened the eyes of many to our fascination with travel and history. This castle has a rich and diverse history. It takes the form of a small hamlet and like most places with a long-standing history was built around a small church of which we have proof dates to 867 AD. The small and enchanting church was a stopping place for pilgrims and is dedicated to St. Fabian, to the pope and to martyrs. There is an apse from the 9^th century, some of it may be dated to the Romanesque era, and a façade was completed in the 18^th century. I’m sure as we continue to revisit, we will spend some more time with Andrea, the present owner, and learn and explore its full history, but he did mention on a memorable night on the day after our wedding that there is a document confirming this very early date.

Between the church and the castle are the beautiful gardens that surround the castle on all sides. These charming gardens played host to our coming together, with nature in abundance and the aromas of rose bushes and lemon trees which have been planted amongst the cypress trees giving that beautiful Tuscan vibe. The castle was built to protect the nearby ford as this was one of the only passing places along the river apart from a Roman bridge a bit further downstream. The fortifications that took place meant that the towers were created to assist with communication with nearby Siena. The towers that are seen today were built at the turn of the 13^th century, and a visit to the highest accessible point is a must to sit and savour a glass of wine as the sun sets. You can see all of Siena’s skyline as the sun sets behind it and perhaps you can think about picking up the fire signals of yesteryear. The castle did see some “action” when the king of Naples army laid siege in 1409 AD. They decided that this would be a perfect post station for the long journey from Naples to Paris. It then passed into the hands of the powerful Sienese family for the next 500 or so years before changing hands a few times to be purchased by the Fiorentini family.

We can be grateful to Andrea’s father (Giovani’s grandfather) for purchasing it and to the family for their continued labour of love that they have invested and continue to take on to preserve such a charming place. Spending time with the family is an honour and privilege to learn about the place. Perhaps the castle and the surrounding countryside is a secret that is worth keeping to ourselves but we have started to share not only its location but its vibrancy on our recent big event and have been surprised to see how many accepted the invitation to come and now, perhaps, share an admiration for such a place. Words perhaps can’t describe how much this place means to us both; we hope it won’t be long until we return.

Castello di San Fabiano, Crete Senesi Gravel Ritorno, Monteroni d'Arbia, Siena, Tuscany, 53014, Italy

August 12, 2020

Vienna Vignette

This global downtime has given me much time to myself, to ponder, reflect and reminisce. The future of the world looks uncertain, however, I can take stock and be grateful for the memories I have already created and hope that one day soon I will be able to create many more.

A visit to Vienna was one of the trips made and should have been one of my first blogs. Sorry. Time allows me to resurrect the photographic memories (both electronic and hard copies) from which I draw upon to write this blog. Five and half years later I’m finally putting pen to paper (or fingers to the keyboard) and composing my thoughts on my meanderings to the Austrian capital. Vienna had only become a capital again when Austria regained its sovereign independence from allied control (another part of the history of this world that needs further exploration). Vienna’s interesting history shows that it has had its fair share of challenges, from the very start of its existence, surviving sieges and capture, to a city of palaces and society that entertained many. Like so many European cities its intriguing history is what inspires you to visit today.

What had lured me to this city I know not. Looking back, it was probably a combination of being given a number of travel guides and finding a cheap flight and the need to use up my remaining annual leave entitlement. Whatever it was that brought me here I can only be thankful as I left amazed at Vienna’s beauty. I waltzed around the streets of Vienna, uplifted by the glorious winter sunshine, and followed in the footsteps of illustrious musicians and royalty. The city boasts an abundance of architecture. Baroque buildings combine with several imperial palaces. Dotted around are museums and statues of iconic people associated with the city and mainly connected by the Ringstrasse.

In my recent meanderings around England (York, Chester) I’ve discovered how the Roman Empire expanded (and ultimately declined). I’ve learnt that the Romans had a good eye for setting up their outposts/forts. Vienna was slightly different as it was established by the Romans and called Vindobona. They may have got this one outpost slightly wrong as by the 5^th century the barbarian invasions had reduced it to ruins. Its apparent weakness was its location on the edge of the Hungarian plains, but surely a strength was the mighty river that flowed nearby, the river Danube. This waterway must surely have been part of the success of the city as it evolved into a major trading centre by the 13^th century. Vienna, however, knew its ups and downs. The same can be said for much of Europe. In the year 1683 it had finally defeated the Turks, and this is when the city really began to flourish, and it was that part of the city that I discovered and admired. The Hapsburgs ruled this imperial capital and developed it on the grandest scale. This brought with it much wealth to Vienna and its music began to thrive. Now known as the music capital of the world, its classical tastes are a far cry from the modern beats, inappropriate language and distasteful subjects. Europe looks to be reorganising itself once again due to Brexit and coronavirus. Clearly it has been here before. In the year 1814 the European powers that had defeated the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte met for the year to discuss how to restore the established order which had been thrown out by the Emperor. So, as you can see the city is rich in history that has fascinated me as I have discovered and explored more of the world’s history. Perhaps I didn’t do the city the justice it deserves in that the stay was short but hope (if I’m lucky enough) to return one day to explore further.

My first day was spent walking up into the vineyards of Vienna. I was perhaps trying to follow in my father’s footsteps when he brought us here when I was 11. There is a distant memory of getting off a boat in the middle of nowhere and exploring the city or so he thought. I had some sort of a plan for the day that involved walking up into the hills to enjoy the views of the vineyards of Vienna and the city. Rumour has it that there is no other city in the world that has vineyards in such close proximity to the city centre. At the time I didn’t appreciate the fine tastes of wine; oh, how I wish I was heading there now with these taste budslong to sample the wine. Instead I made it for the views and breakfast. I had no planned route but followed the signs that were placed on the pathways. My reward at the top of a hill was a glorious view of the River Danube adjacent to which the stunning part of this city is built. The sun hadn’t yet burnt off the morning haze, so the pristine clear views weren’t seen. It was still worth the effort; to the left from my viewpoint was the uglier side of the city that thankfully wasn’t going to get any of my attention. Lying beneath the morning mist was a city waiting to be discovered. My inquisitive mind and body were ready to explore.

After enjoying some refreshments, I returned back down the hills to edge of the river. I had a map but was looking for a route into the city to find the famous Ferris wheel that had been used in the Bond movie ‘The Living Daylights’. Had I reached there I would have immediately recognised it as the place where my dad was given lots of grief for the circuitous route he had made around the city. Instead I stumbled upon a number of football fans and mingled and walked with them in the direction they were travelling. I soon abandoned my plan and followed them in the hope that they might be headed to a game. It soon dawned on me that they were attending a local game. I quickly went to the ticketing office to enquire if there was a spare ticket and I was in. It set me back 32 euros as I got to watch SK Rapid Wien play SK Sturm Graz at the Ernst-Happel-Stadion. By the time the game had finished darkness had fallen upon the city. I did get to the Ferris wheel but had to make do with night-time shots. A wonderful first day in the city came to an end shortly afterwards.

My second and third days were spent exploring the city itself. What an absolute joy it is to look back at those photos taken and remember the grand imperial beauty of the city. At the heart of Vienna lies the 12^th century Stephansdom cathedral (St. Stephens). Very little remains from its early days, and, like so many cathedrals across Europe, additions were made during different periods. When in Vienna you cannot fail to see the cathedral as it stands taller than all around with its stunning mosaic roof, which was laid to show the Royal and Imperial double-headed eagle and the coat of arms of the city of Vienna, sitting with pride of place on the skyline. It is quite distinctive and makes it one of the most recognisable churches in the world. Its famous spire, known as Steffl, stands at 450ft high. Inside the cathedral are many pieces of artwork, that survived a fire towards the end of World War II. That fire also damaged the potent symbol of the city known as ‘the Pummerin’. This bell reflects the turbulent history of the city and was made from the canons that the Turks left when were defeated back in 1683. The bell, like the roof, has since been restored. My walk around Vienna meant that I discovered many other smaller churches that were equally as impressive as the main one in the city.

I may have been a bit naïve as I did not want to spend money exploring the many museums and galleries the city boasts, but I could also add to that argument that the weather was too good to be inside. So, my youthful exuberance made for exploring the beauty that this city had to offer by foot. Being alone I declined the touristy Viennese way of getting around the city, the horse and carriage. These are iconic symbols associated with the city just like gondolas are in Venice or punts in Cambridge. A lot of money could be spent on these things.

I mentioned earlier the Ringstrasse which was a grand boulevard built by emperor Franz Joseph to separate parts of the city. Whether or not it still remains I’m unsure, but what looks to be the more modern development of it houses some of Vienna’s landmarks. Here I found the Neues Rathaus (new town hall) where the Christmas market was being readied. It meant capturing the perfect picture was difficult. Combined with the tall central tower it was almost impossible to get a full image. Also, in this area is the Burgtheatre, which has been restored following damage sustained during World War II. Its beauty from the outside must be admired but rumours of its internal grandeur, must remain just that. Another building that stuck out was the parliament building. You might be mistaken at this point for thinking that you were in Rome or Athens, as Greek and Roman statues adorn the building. In front of the building lies the Athenebrunnen fountain, dominated by the figure of Pallas Athene (the goddess of wisdom). Two final buildings worth mentioning (as they have remarkable similarities) sit mirroring each other. These are the natural history and Kunsthistorisches museums. Rumours are these might be one of the top attractions in the city. I, sadly, must report that I did not step inside them. I remember seeing these wonderful buildings as a child but only from the outside.

The Ringstrasse was designed to separate the Stephansdom and Hofburg areas of the city. The Hofburg area is named after the Hofburg palace, which is one of three that I visited in the city. This complex of buildings right in the centre of the city shows how it was built through the ages, as differerent rulers wanted to leave their mark. I can remember walking through here in the evening with my family and remarking at the number of flags dangling around (as a child I aimed to collect a flag of every country I visited). I can’t recall going inside the complex and exploring the library or state apartments. Instead, along with all the other tourists, I tried to capture images of the outside of the buildings, statues, domes and their architecture and decorative detail. One day….

Coming a little bit away from the centre of the city you reach the Belvedere area of the city. As I mentioned there were more churches visited than the cathedral and one of these was Karlskirche. A grand dome with columns either side of it make it rather appealing. Yet another fine example of the wealth of architecture the city boasts. My main reason for coming into this area of the city was to visit a second palace. The beautiful Belvedere Palace had splendid grounds with water fountains that had been wrapped up for the winter. I could only imagine how many people would have been present during the summer months.

The largely empty gardens gave a wonderful impression as they bathed in the winter sunshine. Again, I didn’t step inside, but found my way out the back where a large water feature provided that iconic shot. As the cold and night started to approach, I made my way towards to the opera area of the city. A glimpse was made of the state opera house, its grand entrance living up to the hype. I would have loved to have been a position to make an entry, and probably listen to the music of the city’s famous sons, but my tired and scruffy appearance would not have been welcomed in such a grand location. Perhaps when I’m older and can dress more suitably I could return and watch a performance of the highest quality. For now, I will have to just enjoy videos of the opera house that emerge of the inside on the internet and in movies.

My final day took me away from the city centre. A short train trip was made to the third palace of my trip, Schonbrunn Palace. What a day this was. The ticket I paid for allowed access to 3 areas if I remember rightly – the palace, the coach museum and the zoo. I made the customary visit inside but disappointingly I can’t remember anything of the inside which is a shame and as the rooms look incredible – perhaps photography wasn’t allowed. This might explain my lack of memory – how interesting it is that we need help to jog our memories. I wonder how much of what I remember is based upon stories that I was told by those who shared the occasion or photos/videos that were taken at the time. Enough of that for that is a vast subject. From here I went to the coach museum, where glorious carriages were on display in the former winter riding school. My afternoon was spent exploring the vast grounds, which boast an impressive green house and a zoo. I went into the zoo as my ticket permitted this, but soon left as the guilt of seeing these wonderful animals in captivity was too much to bear. I always say that once you’ve been on safari (in 2006) you will never want to visit a zoo/aquarium. The palace has a potent yellow façade which is best viewed when walking up to and from the Gloriette. The views were worth the walk. I took on liquid refreshments at Gloriette as it is now home to a café/bar. I can remember indulging in conversation with an old gentleman who was a resident of the city. It was a perfect end to my trip as I sat and talked away about my visit.

Hopefully I’ve manged to describe my trip to this beautiful city. Pictures have proved invaluable in enabling me to retrace my footsteps and put my memories into writing. I’m sure it will provide a delightful Facetime with my father when he reads it and we reminisce. As I’ve remarked before I have many regrets in life, none more so than not writing a blog/diary as a kid or of my earlier travels and all the trips that my parents took me on. So, as I sit and dream of days when travel may resume in a completely different form, I take the moment to remember that my early travel was never taken for granted but I considered it and still consider travel a privilege. It is something that I’m missing greatly.

October 12, 2018

Drinking Dublin

A small capital city with a huge reputation, it attracts visitors from far and wide. When the city is alive its hustle and bustle create an overwhelming sense of craziness. Certain areas of the city possess a constant, unique atmosphere. Although an incredibly touristy city, the locals are ultra-friendly and the crowds flock here to join the craik.

Sadly, my first visit here was far too short and rushed to enjoy this city to its full. Perhaps this is why I didn’t love it like everyone else appears to do. I shall return to explore further its charms and character and possibly some areas out of the main city. I only had 12hrs to explore this place, and while the city is small, trying to see everything by foot was never going to be achievable. There was a need for it to be explored by foot as my ever-increasing waist size was not being helped by the local lifestyle both north and south of the border. I was gutted not to have visited Trinity college area including the book of Kells and college library. I believe that everywhere else was at least seen, but what was missed provides me with the excuse to return.

They say that first impressions count; lets be grateful that Dublin’s didn’t. The city is ugly; it takes advantage of the tourist and, probably, the locals. The buildings look cold and dirty. The pollution and dirt make a face lift a necessity. The city attracts a lot of visitors; this clearly has its pros and cons. On the walkways this is definitely a con, due to the many drinkers/beggars and the build-up of dirt, litter from overflowing bins. The smell made for an unappealing walk. Add the fact that the sun wasn’t shining, and one can see why first impressions were poor. So much for “Dublin’s fair city”.

This the capital of Ireland sits at the head of Dublin Bay; it is a busy port, the financial and commercial hub of Ireland, backed up by its expensive lifestyle, as was pointed out to me by a local as I travelled down on the train. The first part of my walk took me along the eastern part of the river. Here one particular building catches my eye as it looks like it has a canned drink that has been misplaced and built into it. Close by it is anchored the Jeanie Johnston, whose links to the 19^th century famine in these parts sheds a little light on some other parts of Ireland’s history.

My walk takes in all the areas detailed on my tourist/bus map. All the sights were very commercialised, and they were a huge disappointment, Christ church cathedral in particular. Crowds flock to them like bees to honey, and I couldn’t get out of them quick enough. I set off in search of other areas of interest, only to find bus loads of people arriving at them.

Guinness is perhaps Ireland’s biggest and most famous export. Personally, I can’t stand the stuff, even after trying it again over here. On arrival at those famous black and golden gates, I couldn’t be bothered to waste my time and money queuing for a view and perhaps a pint I wasn’t going to enjoy. Instead I headed to a local pub for a drink I would and did enjoy. Not understanding the man behind the bar, I still managed to order and a buy a drink.

From here I took on more walking as I pursued the further sites on my map. I discovered a charming building with quadrants all around; it was much more appealing and photogenic than that of Dublin Castle. From here I found some peace and solitude in the war memorial gardens whilst enjoying my daily packed lunch. From here I ticked off the Wellington monument. An old school bus provided some interesting photo opportunities before I decided to head back to Templar Bar. In no rush, I decided on a pub crawl back towards Templar Bar. Any pub that looked attractive or lively was entered to savour a pint but in each one that was visited the price rose as I got closer to that illustrious place.

Just before arriving at Templar Bar I discovered Ireland’s oldest bar!! Is it true? We may never know! Crowds flocked here and not for a pint but for the “I was here photo” for which people just strolled in and quickly left. Surprisingly I took no such photo; instead I enjoyed my pint as I photobombed everyone’s shameless pictures. Support these pubs!!

I left this pub in search of a more atmospheric location and by that I mean local, musical atmosphere. More by chance than by plan I came to Templar Bar, established 1870. I was drawn in and captivated by the two guys playing their tunes to the hoards of drunkards. Not coping well with the crowds inside I took comfort with the smokers outside. Conversation was struck up with people from far and wide as we all enjoyed each other’s company.

Dublin – I shall return; Trinity college, library and the book of Kells looks like a silly missed opportunity. And perhaps I’ll return to enjoy the evening of Templar Bar once more. Apart from maybe coming across to watch the rugby, my interest in this place is sadly lacking.

Dublin, Leinster, Ireland

September 19, 2018September 19, 2018

Built in Belfast

The first of my four ‘Capitals of the UK’ blog takes me on a short flight across the Irish Sea to brilliant Belfast (although I booked to go to the wrong airport. I flew into Aldergrove rather than Belfast City which would have been more convenient for my pick up!!

What was once one of the richest cities in the world has gone from the industrial years as producers of the finest linen and, at the other end of the manufacturing spectrum, large ships in the famous Belfast shipyards. Belfast became a lively import and export hub. The times after the great wars were clearly marred and scarred by the horrific and horrendous 30 years of troubles. It is now forging a ‘better Belfast’ where the locals open their arms and their mouths very fast talking – it is difficult to understand them sometimes; a combination of the rapid speech and the accent to provide you with warm hospitality. Belfast captivates and fascinates.

‘Built in Belfast’ refers to the ship building yards. It produced a mind-boggling amount of ships both pre and during the war. One of the world’s most famous ships, RMS Titanic, was built in Belfast (as they say, ‘It was fine when it left here!!’). It’s incredible to think of the numbers associated with the yards. In their heyday some 30,000 people were building including my host’s father. Imagine the noise this would have created as rivets were hit all day long. An interesting fact to back this up; 3 million rivets were used to build the Titanic alone. These slipways are vastly changed as flats, hotels are built on them at an alarming rate. Its other addition, and the one that gives this area its name, is the museum to that famous ship. Isn’t it amazing how one movie can create such a tourist attraction!!! As I’m led to believe this is now one of the busiest tourist attractions in Europe. I didn’t find it that appealing – its cost, and commercialisation of a terrible disaster that happened thousands of miles away wasn’t that interesting. Perhaps a museum to Belfast’s shipbuilding past, celebrating the design and engineering feats may have been more appealing for me, as it wasn’t just the Titanic that was built here. My host’s father (my dad’s uncle) helped to build the Canberra.

The port is now a regular cruise ship destination; a record 117 will have stopped here by October this year. 10 years ago there were none. It still has managed to keep Samson and Goliath – iconic, bright and yellow they dominate Belfast’s cityscape. They are not used these days for ship building but for building renewable energy items, like wind turbines. Thankfully they have maintained the H & W letters on them (Harland & Wollf) which alone are 6m in height!

When visiting Belfast you can’t ignore its recent history. Perhaps this is why it makes it the most fascinating of the 4 capitals in my opinion. This terrible part of history finished when I was just 10yrs old (I was also in Belfast for the Good Friday agreement of 1998). I can’t begin to understand any part of it, but after visiting, reading and listening to the tour guides talk about it on every trip, it clearly can’t be ignored and looks like it is going to play a part in its tourist future. The two routes of conflict are religion and being part of the union. Perhaps this also highlights/mirrors some of Britain’s current problems. Belfast provides some monumental landmarks that are worth visiting, eye opening, slightly emotional and incredibly powerful. The peace wall and the murals in particular captivated my attention.

The city centre itself is built around the impressive city hall. A free visit inside is well worth it (that sounds a bit Irish but you know what I mean), and you are greeted by an incredible stairway, walls and ceiling. Around from the city hall lies all the normal shops and restaurants that any city boasts, although the recent fire had burned down one particular store. Anyone who visits Ireland/Northern Ireland will be lured into the many pubs providing good beers and regular music and a unique and lively atmosphere. One of Belfast’s names is ‘heart attack city’. It’s hard to disagree with this after indulging in a number of traditional breakfasts; they really are a heart attack on a plate (thanks 1st cousins once removed).

As I bring my visit here to an end and prepare for my flight home my final walk round takes me to the botanic gardens. I went in search of the Ulster museum, but it didn’t appear to be open. So instead I had a fascinating walk around the gardens admiring the brilliant art work portraying the recycling the city offers and the lack of it in the world in which we live. I found this intriguing and fascinating, and just as powerful as the many murals around the city.

‘Cities are built and rebuilt by people who love what they stand for’. Belfast can never forget its past, but this city has moved on as it leaves behind its famous industrial heritage and terrible troubles. It is forging a new and successful era as visitors are welcomed, with easy access from far and wide. Oh, how the modern means of easy travel and tourism is changing the landscape of the world….

Belfast, Northern Ireland, United Kingdom