San Luca, Bologna

Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca

Perched on top of the mountain Colle della Guardia and overlooking the city of Bologna is the iconic ‘Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca’, an important symbol of the city. There has been a church in some form at the site since the 12^th century with the current basilica built in the 18^th century. Read on as I learn why San Luca is more than just a tourist destination, and as I discover, more by luck than by judgement, about the ‘Madonna and child’ and the symbolism of the longest portico in the world.

History of San Luca

Tradition has it that in the 11^th century a pilgrim by the name of Theocles Kmnia arrived in Italy from Constantinople carrying a painting depicting the ‘Madonna and Child’. He was to take the painting to Monte della Guardia (a hill to the southwest of Bologna) but ended up in Rome. Thankfully a Bolognese senator was able to show him the right way. Theocles arrived at the gates of Bologna in 1160 and delivered the painting of ‘Madonna and Child’ to the then Bishop of Bologna, a Gerardo Grassi.

At the top of Monte della Guardia was a small church where Beatrice and Azzolina Guezi (two hermits leading a penitent life) took sanctuary. Bishop Grassi decided to deliver the painting to this church. Thus, the route that pilgrims still take to this day was born.

Over time a large influx of pilgrims visited the church which meant that it needed to expand to cope with the increased numbers. So, in 1194 the foundation stone, which came from Rome, was laid and blessed by Pope Celestine III. Since then, the church has had many transformations. Construction of the church as seen today was started in 1723 by Carlo Francesco Dutti and finished in 1757.

The Church

The basilica is prominent and spectacular being built on top of the hill. It is captivating, looks very Bolognese – plain and simple – basic in its external decor (orange in colour), and with a distinctive dome on top. As I walk in, I’m immediately drawn to the altar at the far end. Unknown to me, this is where ‘Madonna and Child’ is kept.

One soon realises the importance, grandeur and splendour of the altar area. Artwork, pillars, golden decorations adorn this area of the church. One cannot ignore the centrepiece, ‘The Madonna of San Luca’, which is kept in a silver looking case which sits in an ornate cove and is surrounded by golden borders. Also, inside the church it is possible to see works from Guido Reni, Donato Creti, Giuseppe Mazza and Guercino.

Inside San Luca — Chapel inside San Luca

The Rains of 1433

In 1443 the heavy rains threatened to destroy the cities harvest. The city elders decided that that a procession from San Luca, carrying ‘The Madonna with Child’ to the centre of Bologna might help the situation. Miraculously, as the painting left San Luca so it began to stop raining. And so, since 1443 it has become tradition (feast of accession) to carry the painting down to the city where it resides in Bologna’s Cathedral for a 1 week before a procession takes it back. There were two occasions when this didn’t happen – firstly, in 1849 when the city was occupied by Austrians and, secondly, in 1944 during World War II.

The modern procession has broken a little from tradition as it now starts at Porta Saragozza and not San Luca and makes its way through the streets of the city to Bologna Cathedral.

The World’s Longest Portico

Built to protect pieces of artwork of the ‘Madonna and Child’ that had been created along the route, local merchants and wealthy families came together to provide the needed funds to build the portico. The world’s longest portico (covered walkway) was built between 1674 and 1793. The first arch starts at beginning of Via Saragozza, a street which leads away from the city at Porta Saragozza (gate of Saragozza).

The portico is made up of 666 arches and 15 chapels. The number of arches may be thought a very controversial number when you consider its religious significance (the number of evil and, some would say, the devil) but it is, in fact, by design. When looking from above the portico resembles a snake slithering up the hill to ‘meet’ the ‘Madonna’ church. The snake symbolises the devil and the church is seen as victorious and reigning supreme over the devil.

The length of the walk from bottom to top is 4km. For tourists and pilgrims alike, it is said that reaching the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca by foot can make a wish come true.

Conclusions

The Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca should not be missed when visiting Bologna. Simple in appearance yet significantly symbolic, it is a pilgrimage site for believers, but also a very popular tourist destination. A portico plod may be inspiring though extremely exhausting, especially in the summer months. Reach the top, however, and there is great reward. This trip educated me on the ‘Madonna and Child’ and the significance it plays in the city of Bologna, and how it effects its traditions and its people. San Luca is a beautiful place of myth and mystery.

Bologna Cathedral
As I leave my hotel and walk along Via Indipendenza towards Bologna’s city centre, I’m immediately drawn to a tall, imperious, church-like looking façade which is nestled almost secretly alongside buildings in the busy street. Bologna Cathedral is unlike other cathedrals I have visited (both home and abroad), Bologna’s cathedral seems to be a secret and is easily confused with the Basilica of San Petronio in Piazza Maggiore. The locations of most cathedrals that I have visited are such that they normally dominate a square in the city centre. Such cathedrals stand proudly and majestically in sight for all to gaze in wonder and are hubs of activity. Normally a cathedral has a very commanding presence for a city but Bologna’s cathedral is shy and reserved in comparison. Although almost hidden as if a terraced property, it should not be ignored and provides a great place to start exploring Bologna.

The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Peter
This is Bologna’s cathedral’s full and proper name. In the 16^th century, Bologna’s bishop of the time was elevated by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582 to become an archbishop, which meant that the cathedral was given the rank of “metropolitan church”. Bologna’s cathedral then became the seat of the archbishop and gave the archbishop jurisdiction over the ecclesiastical territory (diocese), which included other cathedrals and their bishops. Bologna’s archdiocese has three suffragan dioceses (dioceses other than the metropolitan archdiocese that constitute an ecclesiastical province). To the southeast of Bologna lies the Diocese of Imola (cathedral of Imola) and little further down the road the Diocese of Faenza-Modigliana (Faenza cathedral). To the northeast of Bologna, the third Diocese of Ferrara-Comacchio (Ferrara cathedral). I’m sure as we explore the churches and cathedrals in England we will come across many similar arrangements.

History of Bologna Cathedral
Looking at its history it is a bit of a calamitous church. Bologna’s cathedral is dedicated to San Pietro (Saint Peter), head of the apostles and the first pope. Most of the present building dates from the 17^th century with the cathedral’s origins being traced back to the 10^th and 11^th century. Its calamitous past has seen several changes over the centuries. It was ravaged by a fire in 1131 and damaged by an earthquake in 1222. This meant that the church was rebuilt a couple of times. In 1477 two Ferrarese painters worked on the creation of a cycle of frescoes, and these would have had a significant influence on Niccolo dell ’Arca and Michelangelo. Sadly, the frescoes were lost in subsequent reconstruction. In 1599 the alterations made to the cathedral caused the vaults to collapse and the cathedral was then built from scratch and started in 1605.

Façade of Bologna Cathedral
Due to its location and its height it’s very hard to photograph the front of the cathedral. It has a very bland appearance and is constructed out of red stone. The façade that is seen today was built between 1743 and 1747 under the instructions of Pope Benedict XIV. The designs were completed by architect Alfonso Torregiani. Looking at the front of the cathedral, two statues may be seen – the one on the left is San Pietro and the one on the right is San Paolo (Saint Paul).

Inside Bologna cathedral
Walking into the cathedral nave, I immediately take my eyes off to colourful tiles in front of me and raise my eyes to the grand altar at the front of cathedral. There are golden pillars on each side with paintings on the ceiling and a coat of arms across the top. Looking at this display I notice the height of the ceiling of the whole room. Why so tall? Acoustics? There are tall pillars on either side of the nave with chairs in the middle for the congregation to sit. The actual ceiling is very bland in appearance. In between the pillars there are different chapels, with paintings and lots of golden furnishings. In the first chapel (immediately on your right as you walk in) you will see a display of terracotta statues which is called the Lamentation of Christ. This was sculptured by Alfonse Lombardi between 1522 -1526. Also, inside Bologna Cathedral it is possible to admire paintings by Prospero Fontana, Ludovico Carracci, Marcantonio Franceschini and Donato Creti. In the altar area is a wooden crucifix from the 12^th century.

Bologna Cathedral Crypt
A crypt is an underground vault which is normally used as a chapel or a burial place. Access to the crypt is permitted as part of a combined ticket with the bell tower and will cost you 5 euros and is only open on certain days and times. Lucky enough for it to be open on my visit, I took a visit to the crypt where I found a chapel and an archaeological site. The site has found remains of 10^th century Romanesque cathedral pillar beam, and also two beams from the 12^th century. In the nave they have put glass flooring in for viewing.

Bologna Cathedral Bell Tower
An incredible visit to the top of the tower is a must for those fit and daring enough. I quickly found out that the bell tower is a tower within a tower! The original tower is 40 metres high and survived the fire and earthquake mentioned earlier. In 1254 the bell tower that is seen today was constructed around the existing tower. The encompassing tower is now 70m high and is the second tallest tower in Bologna. The covered dome topping was added in 1426. Its rather surreal when you climb the steps trapped between the two towers. When you arrive at the top, the views are incredible and give another perspective of Bologna’s skyline. Inside the bell tower are 4 bells, and the largest known as ‘nonna’ or ‘grandmother’ weighs 33 quintals. It takes a funny upside-down position. The bells are rung “in the Bolognese way” and this requires 23 people to ring the bells.

Conclusions
A secretive cathedral and possibly the most important church in Bologna. I’m sure many people like me would confuse Bologna Cathedral with the dominating and unfinished Basilica in Piazza Maggiore which has the appearance and location of a cathedral but as we have learned doesn’t have the archbishop. I have learned that this church is the head of the archdiocese and I will have to visit the cathedrals in nearby Ferrara, Imola and Faenza, which make up Bologna’s diocese. A visit to the tower is always worth the hard work of climbing the stairs (I forgot to count how many) which gives a totally different view of the city. I hope you enjoy this blog. For those planning a visit to Bologna in the future, ignore it at your peril. For those who have been please let me know your thoughts.

Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy